Thursday, March 5, 2020
If you want a really high - go surf every day
How can I explain surfing with a word? WOW! Surfing is the best "high" you'll ever experience. This article will tell you about the special feelings that you get when connected to surfing. There are many ways to explain what surfing is all about. Here are a few.
Surfing is Aloha. Surfing is freedom. Surfing is alive. Surfing is Stoke. Surfing is an emotion. Surfing is happiness. Surfing is like having a Love Affair. Surfing is in your heart. Surfing is love. Surfing is wonderful. Surfing is God given. Surfing is life.
There are almost as many expressions of surfing as there are jellyfish; The art of surfing is about the different elements that create joy for every person in the water. So surf and get a really natural height!
You can experience the joy of surfing on almost any surfboard type or design. You can get a sense of surfing from everything from a bodyboard to a skimboard, a wakeboard, a short surfboard, a long surfboard, a Standup Paddleboard and even body surfing.
I love to surf and be in the water. I want to share this experience with you, so that is why I am writing this article in hopes of getting someone excited about surfing.
Here's what a surfer says about sharing the surfing experience, "There's no better feeling than getting another person to surf. It's true, it doesn't strike me that there are more surfers in the water these days. just means I have to get up earlier in the morning. When I saw this man rise on a wave for the first time, I felt like I had come up on a wave for the first time. "-Shaun Tomson. Surfer's Code.
Growing up in Laguna Beach, it constantly surprises me that I don't see any more Laguna Ticks, as the locals are called, in the water and on the beach every day. Yes, there are countless reasons to avoid the beach when it is blowing, when it is raining, when it is too hot or too cold, the sun is burning, but there are so many better reasons to find the reason for being on the beach and in the water on the days when I can't stay away. It's like a wonderful natural high. With the ocean and surf as your friend, you are ready for life.
You don't have to be a pro surfer to like surfing. It's a shame that most all surf films show that the professionals do all these wild and difficult maneuvers in waves that most surfers can't and will never ride. Most of us just mortals can have fun running waves that are only one foot or maybe 3 to 5 feet on the wave. Most of the movies send a wrong message to the public because the waves are scary and beyond the capabilities of 99% + of all surfers in the world.
So, forget about the great surf and go to the beach and ride on the small to moderately sized waves that God created for all of us to enjoy. Run with a boogieboard or your soft surfboard. Go out and have fun as you like. If you really get hooked on surfing, you can graduate to the bigger waves, but it takes practice, lots of time in the water, physical stamina and the will and determination to get better. Most of us just want to have a good time and have fun riding the friendly waves.
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